Rear mech hanger bolt

Find the perfect hanger to fit your bike. Simply enter the make, model or part number. To find the rear mech derailleur hangers you need, simply type one of the following in any of the search boxes on the website…. Not only do we stock thousands of different Rear Mech Hangers, with many in numerous colours, but we can also supply bespoke Factory Direct Hangers, based on your need and specifications.

A rear mech derailleur hanger is a sacrificial part of a bicycle, designed to deliberately break in order to prevent damage to the main bike frame. Also known as derailleur hangers, gear mech hangers and frame-savers, a rear mech hanger is a relatively cheap and essential piece of equipment for anyone who is serious about their cycling.

A rear mech derailleur hanger is usually made of a relatively soft alloy which is either cast, stamped, forged or made using a CNC machine. It is attached to your bike using bolts or screws and then your rear derailleur itself bolts on to the hanger.

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Search for:. What We Do rearmechhanger. What is a Rear Mech Derailleur Hanger? This website uses cookies and third party services. If you continue to use it, you agree to our cookies policy.

Go to Top.B2B Trade Information. This process is fairly easy and can be carried out with normally just a 5mm allen key on std hangers, and smaller allen key sizes on others, just follow these simple steps, and your be back on your bike in no time.

If unsure, always contact your local bike shop for expert advice. Do not install a replacement hanger onto a damaged frame dropout. If not sure, please always take your bike to your local shop for advice. File the protruding screw end if necessary. Be sure to re-adjust the quick release making sure the wheel is straight in the frame. If unsure, always take your bike to your local cycle shop for expert help and advice.

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What is a bent gear mech hanger? Most frames are equipped with a replaceable derailleur hanger. This part is installed as a safety feature, as well as a convenience to you. It is not uncommon for foreign objects, such as sticks, stones and other debris to bend your hanger.

Cycle derailleur hangers are designed to bend and break! This inherent design actually keeps more expensive damage to your frame from occurring.

How To: Easy Bicycle derailleur hanger replacement

If these were stronger and more resistant to bending and breaking, there is a good chance that these forces would bypass the hangers and destroy the area of the frame attached to the hangers. It is a good idea to purchase a few extra hangers to prevent a breakage from interrupting your riding time. Because the piece is designed to break, bending it back 'straight' will stress it further, probably causing it to snap, If possible live with it until the ride is over and you can get it replaced.

Or better still carry a spare with you! Adjusting the high and low adjustment screws on the derailleur may allow you to stay in gear, but the cchain wilol still have a tendency to slip.

rear mech hanger bolt

If the chain skips really badly, you can try to bend the hanger back, grab the derailleur body not the pulley wheels and apply firm constant pressure to bend it in the required direction. An alternative is to remove the derailleur with a 5mm allen key and run your bike in a 'single speed mode' by adjusting the chain length, this is not ideal but is a good solution to get you home. Even if you do manage to bend the hanger straight, it may retain a lateral front-rear twist, which will still keep it from shifting perfectly.

Once you get back home, buy a new hanger. The stresses of being bent and bent back mean that your current one is weak and could disintegrate at any time. Best wishes. The gearmechhanger.First, check your rear mech is done up tight against the hanger turn the bolt clockwise with a 5mm Allen key.

With your bike in a workstand or upside down, shift into the middle of the cassette. Look down through the jockey wheels to see if they align with the chain. Make a note of the direction it needs to be adjusted in. Shift into the smallest sprocket, undo the mounting bolt and remove the mech from the bike. Thread the tool clockwise into the hanger until snug.

If the tool has now separated from the rim, push it gently towards the wheel until the hanger is bent permanently back into line. Tighten the spanner over the hanger so that it covers the threaded hole and clamps the hanger snugly. Then twist the spanner gently until the hanger is back in line. Check the hanger looks straight, by eye.

Avoid over-correcting the bend because this will weaken the hanger.

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Reinstall the mech, shift into the middle of the cassette and check the alignment again, as in step one. Seb's been riding and racing mountain bikes for half his life. Since getting hooked on mountain bikes aged thirteen riding a tiny 24Seven Crosser, he's raced downhill, enduro and cross country, and while no athlete, still enters the occasional race. Seb studied experimental physics at university, and he's now happily using wasting his degree experimenting with different bike setups, trying to work out what works best and why.

You'll often find him riding the same track ten times in a day, changing just one thing to pin down the differences.

Seb's much happier back-to-back testing suspension on a wet Welsh hillside than riding the latest five-figure bikes on some sunny press trip - although he quite likes that too! Home Features How to straighten a bent mech hanger.

rear mech hanger bolt

Seb Stott Technical Writer. Daily Deals. You may also like.

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How to adjust and index bike gears Diagnosing and fixing common shifting problems.They are usually made of an alloy; a relatively soft material, cast, stamped, cold-forged or CNC Machined.

They attach to your bike by bolts, screws or both, from inside or outside the frame. The actual rear derailleur itself then bolts to this mech hanger.

There are hundreds if not thousands of different types of rear hangers. You will find that some hangers fit an enormous number of different manufacturer frames and multiple frame years, like our CC, pictured here.

All About Rear Derailleur Gear Mech Hangers

As a result, it is an impossible part to warranty. Successful breakage pictured here. A bent or broken rear mech hanger is an extra expense and a pain but is very minor compared to the cost of repairing or replacing your frame or damaged drive-train components. It is also much less expensive than snapping an in-built hanger on an older style steel frame, like this example here…. This essentially renders the frame useless.

When overloaded, the fuse is designed to blow. The fault can then be checked, diagnosed and remedied where applicable.

The fuse can then be replaced and equipment set up and tested fully before use. We all need to avoid the chances of breakage as best we can. Crashes perhaps, being the principal one. So what should we reduce or avoid? Crashing, potholes, poor gear shifts, just being in the wrong gear particularly when climbing or on stationary starts are good examples of what to avoid or take care with.

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Many reasons are potentially homegrown from poor maintenance issues. Experience points the finger at incorrectly fitted or worn chains, debris caught up in links, a chain that is too long or short for the crankset, rear mech and cassette combinations fitted. Not setting limit screws and having incorrectly indexed gears is another. Lots of these can be removed as risks with good maintenance.

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Left alone they can cause undue stress on your gear hanger. Some of these examples are when drive-train parts are placed under some of the greatest load, creating massive stresses on the component parts ie.

Simply keeping our component parts clean, free of debris, detritus and lubing them where necessary will go a long way to preventing catastrophe. How many times have you caught grass, twigs, road gravel or tarmac in your chain and drivetrain parts? How long has it stayed there?

rear mech hanger bolt

How many times have you removed parts, used a degreaser bath and thoroughly cleaned them, or had your LBS do it for you? Not at all? It comes as no surprise that whether your bike is a work hack, weekend warrior or carbon steed, it will suffer as a result. Then you begin to realise why rear mech hangers exist and sacrifice themselves when necessary.

Think twice. When the gear hanger bends or breaks under load it is paying for our riding environment, riding habits, lack of maintenance, mechanical sympathies and everyday abuse, so expect it to break at some time and carry a spare. With the best will in the world, what we plan to do as sympathetic bike owners with the up-keep of our bikes, tends to fall much short of our actions.

One more thing; mechanics get it wrong too! Time spent differs hugely from one LBS to another. If an LBS needs to diagnose why a gear hanger failed, expect to pay for labour time to do it.

Its not just a gear hanger fitting charge.In order to service and fine-tune the rear derailleur, we must first understand how it works. This article helps give a basic understanding of how rear derailleurs work to aid you as you work on servicing your own rear derailleur. The rear derailleur is the mechanism that shifts the chain at the rear sprockets. There are many different models but they all share the same basic design and functionality.

The upper pivot to the derailleur is connected to the lower pivot by a linkage system that forms a parallelogram Rear derailleurs use a cage fitted with two pulleys.

The lower pulley pulls backwards to give tension to the lower section of chain.

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The upper pulley guides the chain to the sprockets. On mechanical-type derailleurs, a cable is secured at a pinch bolt. The cable is pulled to move the cage inward. A return spring in the linkage will move the derailleur the opposite direction when the cable is released.

Electrical systems use an electrical signal to trigger a motor to move the linkage. The derailleur is connected to a shift lever with a cable passing through housing.

Bikes commonly use an index shifter that moves the cable a small predetermined amount with each click. Barrel adjusters can be located at the derailleur body or the shift lever. They are used to correctly adjust the shifting between cogs. Unthreading, or turning the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise at the shifter or derailleur takes up cable slack, or effectively shortens the housing. This will move the G-pulley slightly inward.

Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will give the cable more slack, effectively lengthening the housing. This moves the G-pulley slightly outward. Derailleurs are fitted with limit screws which are adjusted to stop the derailleur from shifting too far inward or too far outward.

The end of the limit screw strikes the linkage, and this stops pulley travel Tightening the L-screw will restrict travel on the left side. This screw controls the size of the gap between the guide pulley and sprockets. Tightening the B-screw will increase the size of this gap while loosening the B-screw will shrink this gap. Rear Derailleur Adjustment View Article. Trade Resources. Derailleur upper pivot Derailleur lower pivot. Derailleur cable secured by pinch bolt Wound spring in derailleur linkage.

And those are the basics of the rear derailleur. Back To Top.This article will discuss derailleur hanger alignment and use of the DAG A misaligned derailleur hanger will often result in poor shifting performance. A common cause of a misaligned hanger is from the bike falling over to the right side. This pushes the derailleur body inward, bending the hanger. It is often possible to repeatedly re-bend many derailleur hangers. This is because there is very little stress from riding the bike or shifting gears.

rear mech hanger bolt

As a rule of thumb, if a hanger survives a repair by bending, it will survive use. However, there are some hangers that do not repair well. Extremely thick hangers and titanium hangers are difficult and sometimes impossible to repair. Bolt-on type hangers that are replaceable are alignable. However, these types of hangers can be tricky to align depending upon the frame hanger-to-dropout mounting design.

Newly installed replaceable hangers should always be checked for correct alignment. After aligning and correcting the derailleur hanger, it will be necessary to check all rear derailleur adjustment, including limit screw and index settings. For rear derailleur adjustments see Rear Derailleur Adjustment. The DAG These will help prevent the slider from falling out and can be used as markers when racks or fenders prevent full DAG This procedure will be described at the end of this article.

Begin by mounting the bike in a repair stand with the wheels level as the bike would appear on flat ground. Check that the rear wheel is mounted straight in the frame. The wheel does not need to be dished or true for use of the tool.

Remove rear derailleur.

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Install DAG Chase and clean the threads using the TAP Rotate the tire valve to the position. Use this point on the rim as a constant reference when checking the hanger. By checking the same point on the rim, wheel trueness or dish will not affect alignment. Slide gauge bracket toward hub before rotating arm. This prevents gauge from begin forced against rim.CCE is 10 years old!

Well done to ALL posters It soon became useful and entertaining. There are regular posters, people who add useful info occasionally and plenty more who drop by to watch. That's fine. No swearing. Register - lost password? Slightly obscure topic - thread size for rear mech hangers. Both should have compatible threads for the hanger, right?

Wrong it seems. The derailleur has begun to strip the threads on the hanger, so I've stopped trying to install it before I cause any catastrophic damage. The frame was new old stock and there's no previous damage to the threads bike has never been assembled anyway.

I've never had any trouble like this, derailleurs have always just "worked" when I've put them on the frame. Without insult to your competency, I've found that the angle to present the derailleur to the hanger hasn't always been obvious, so getting them properly started took a few attempts. All modern hangers have a 10mm x 1mm thread as have all rear mechs.

Is your rear mech hangar slightly bent as this can sometimes cause problems with cross-threading? If it's not an interchangeable hangar very occasionally these may need the threads chased on new frames before fitting the rear mech. Thanks chaps. It's a frame made from pencils, with a threaded metal insert. There shouldn't be any bend in it, as it's not metal and also never had a mech in it.

All sorted thanks, running the correct sized tap through it sorted it out. No harm done.

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Uberuce Member. Tap is DIY term I believe linked to the thread for a screw? Applies to bikes if you have a thread that needs realigned, may work on this forum too. ChDot could give the thread a Tap to get it back on topic? A tap is an engineers tool used to cut a screw thread in a blank hole, it can also be used to clean up a slightly damaged thread. Often found as part of a "tap and die" set, one lot of tools for internal threads, one for external threads. Very handy things if you ever have the correct size to hand for the piece you are working on No real reason for you to know the term unless you've had cause to use them or it's come up in general conversation.

As you hang around with bikie types I'd give it a 2 out of 10. I think Dalry Lidl still had some tap and die sets in stock last week from their most recent budget tool extravaganza. I've only had cause to fit a rear mech twice that I can remember, but any time I'm screwing in a tricky thread, I always turn the screw in the opposite direction until I hear a click to tell me the screw is seated correctly. It saves an awful lot of cross-threaded screws! RSS feed for this topic.

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